Place the lumber on heavy-duty drop cloths. Pour the stain into the 5-gallon bucket, about one-third full. Douglas Fir — This is another abundant wood type that is very popular for fencing.
With similar benefits as of pine, douglas fir has a few added advantages. It is one of the strongest softwoods, which can make it preferable over pine. Since fir is somewhat resistant to staining , gel stain works well because it rests on the wood and slowly seeps into the wood grain.
Sand your fir furniture before you apply gel stain to ensure long-lasting adhesion. What is the best finish for Douglas fir? Dye-based stains are ideal for very fine or close-grained woods like CVG Douglas fir.
Pigment-based stains tend to hide the natural grain because they sit on the surface, but they do leave your wood with an impressive color effect. They work best on less dense woods. What is the best stain for Douglas fir? Dye-based stains work better with Douglas fir than pigment-based stains because they allow the natural patterns of the grain to show.
Apply the gel with a staining sponge or clean, lint-free cloth. Work in long stripes following the grain rather than working across it. Will Douglas fir stain the same as pine? I would like a stain that matches the two different species. A: That should not be too hard since Douglas fir, in spite of its name, is actually a species of pine, not fir. When you reach the end of the wood, start another row overlapping the first line by 1 inch.
Dust off the wood with a soft cloth. You should be looking at a dull surface without any shiny spots when finished. The dull appearance means that you have sufficiently opened the pores on the wood. Dip a folded cotton cloth into an open can of stain. Wipe the surface of the wood with the wet cloth until the wood is consistently wet with stain. If the cloth begins to dry out, dip the cloth into the can and get more stain.
Wipe the stain off with a dry, cotton cloth. Vigorously wipe the wood, using circular motions. I stumbled on to this with a google search, trying to decide if we should use pre-conditioner or not. The pictures are really helpful! Your pictures look the opposite, like the gel stain really defined the grain. Either way, we plan to overcoat the final stain color with Minwax Helmsman spar-urethane. Do you have any experience with spar-urethane on doug fir?
My own experience with polyshades is mixed. Plus the thickness of the poly is connected to the darkness of the color. Can you be more specific on the type of wood..
Ive been trying to do a similar project but the different grades of Douglas Fir are mind boggling. Were there splits in the wood? Thanks so much for this! My brother in law just finished the most beautiful Walnut shelves for the shoes in my new walk-in. We are putting in a fir barn sliding door and wanted to stain it to look like walnut. We will try this out and hopefully it will turn out as lovely as your shelves did.
Wow, what different results! I never knew you could custom order wood—great tip. Looking forward to seeing these up! Gel stain is miraculous! Am looking forward to see what your shelves look like — love how chunky they are! Gift Guides! We designed the Charly line of sofas, chairs, and ottomans with perfect proportions for comfort — with wide arms, a loungey depth, and stylish and practical lumbar pillows.
Available in 70 kid-friendly, pet-friendly fabrics, this line was created with families in mind. Our wood grain Shaker cabinet fronts were designed for busy, high-traffic homes like ours. It's the perfect, practical way to add the warmth of wood to all the rooms of your home. We have teamed up with Loloi to create a line of rugs that are as affordable as they are beautiful. We partnered with Stuga on a line of hardwood floors — The Ingrid is really livable, and the color is very neutral.
We have really loved putting it everywhere in our house. In addition to being beautiful, Ingrid is really durable — we have three kids, and we always have a home construction project going on.
Ingrid stands up to it all. Looking for our favorite things? Browse the CLJ shop. In an industry that often feels designed to make you discontent, we want this to be place you come for inspiration, ideas, and encouragement to make the space you're already in feel like home.
Over the weekend Brooke our social media manager and I went to the Parade of Homes in the Raleigh area and it was so fun to get a feel of how other people in our new area are living and living large! The purpose of the parade is so that home builders and designers can […]. Want to do what we do? Using Douglas Fir Trim. Conditioner is supposed to help but you must follow directions printed on can.
Many make the mistake of allowing conditioner to dry longer than recommended. Uneven attraction between wood and stain One method is to use an oil-based stain and swab the wood with mineral spirits immediately only a few seconds before you wipe on a thin layer of stain.
The thirsty wood soaks up the mineral spirits and not the stain. Also, applying a thin layer of stain - the wipe on method - is easier to control than applying an excess of stain and trying to evenly remove what you don't want - the wipe off method. I never realy gave it much thought Lazy G but now tah you put it that way,wipe on is indeed a good method to keep in one's arsenal.
Fir has a lot of stain-absorbancy problems, the hard rings are impervious to stain penetration. If I knew the color, perhaps I could give specifics. To avoid blotching, prior to staining I prefer to use dewaxed shellac instead of products labeled "conditioner".
I wipe on a thin coat of Zinsser Sealcoat dewaxed shellac with a rag, wait a few minutes, run an ultrafine sanding sponge over it, and then apply the stain. For stain, I agree with HandyMac about using dyes. I use TransTint dyes diluted in water - this does raise the grain a bit the wood soaks up the water and expands so you do need to do a light sanding after staining.
In both cases I start with the dewaxed shellac. Hi, I would use gel stains for this. I'd start with a "new pine" color, very light but pigmented.
Then layer on the color of your choice until it was dark enough. The first stain will seal the grain so every subsequent coat colors the entire piece the same without the softer wood taking in the majority of the color. Instead of the new pine color, you could use clear "sealcoat" de-waxed shellac. That would likely give a clearer grain effect even under a few coats of gel stain, but not do as good a job stopping the natural orange tone of fir. If your drying conditions are less than ideal, you can intersperse more coats of shellac; rub out with synthetic steel wool before the next layer of color.
Topcoat could be whatever you wish, but the clear satin gel varnish looks great if you can keep up with it. It dries very fast in warm weather. You should try water-popping the wood before you apply the penetrating stain.
0コメント